Your chain makes all sorts of noise, it falls on the inside of your crank, shifts off the outside and scratches your brand new SRAM Red SRM crank (ouch!). Front derailleurs are a mystical apparatus which at one time or another cause intense pain and suffering while trying to adjust properly - no sweat we’ll figure it out.
First off: tools, do you have the ones need for the job?
Some good cable housing cutters (Park makes the best). SIS housing is too much for most pliers to cut cleanly.
A flat file (mill bastard) to file down the cut housing ends
Metric hex keys, for mounting the derailleur and adjusting the cable tension
A bike stand, keeps things close to eye level and makes any adjustment less awkward
A hammer in case things get hectic
A few key points to remember when you are setting up a front derailleur:
Height
Rotation
Angle
Limit screw adjustment
Cable attachment
There are a few different styles of front derailleurs and you have one of them or are thinking about purchasing one of them (good for you) make sure you get the right one…or you’ll have to buy another…and another. I am just gonna help you adjust it because I am figuring that it’s installed (that always helps when trying to make your bikes front derailleur shift properly) and you are just in shifting distress.
Make sure that your derailleur cage is REEEEEEEALLY close to the teeth on your big ring when it swings over them in a “small ring to big ring” gear change. Companies recommend around 2-3mm, which is really close. (your cable does not need to be attached to do this - use your strong hands)
Once you sort out the clearance issue make sure that the front derailleur shift cage is parallel to the chain rings…PERFECTLY PARALLEL - If you have some sort of visual “parallax-myopiafarsitednearness” get someone to help you with this.
Now shift your lever into its starting position, which translates to: the small ring. If your cable is not attached to the front derailleur anchor bolt, pull on the cable as you shift the lever to the starting position. This keeps the head of the cable from coming dislodged and tangled inside the shift lever (not fun to fix)
Once your shifter is in the starting position, attach the cable to the front derailleur and check your adjustment screws.
The H set screw should be set to swiftly and certainly move the chain from the small ring to the largest ring without the chain dropping off (an overshift).
The L set screw should be set to quickly drop the chain from the larger rings to the smallest ring while stopping it just short of overshifting onto the bottom bracket shell (ouch).
From here we are, for the most part, finished. You will have to tweak your front derailleur for chain rub if you do not have the trim adjustment feature on your shifter. The “trim-clicks” as we call them are half-steps in between your large and small ring gear change. This allows you to elimanate chain rub so you won’t be the noisey one on the group ride.
So, jump in and give it a shot - you won’t do a perfect job on your first attempt but the more you wrestle with it the more completely you will understand it. Preparation, patience and persistance.
Do you have any tips for adjusting the front derailleur of your own? Leave them here so this can be a resource for everyone to use!
The Shimano 105 5600 STI Levers are race performance 10 speed brake/shift levers for those on a budget. With an ergonomically designed lever hood, and short stroke shifting these do a good job of keeping you comfortable on your ride. I’d say the best thing about the Shimano 105 5600 STI levers is that you get most of the race feel in a package that will last for much longer than some of the high end models that lack in durability.
So we just got in a couple sets of the 2008 Crank Brothers Mallet 1 Pedals and they are hot- one of the sturdiest looking and feeling setups we currently have in the store. The Mallet 1’s are the perfect solution if you want to ride in a variety of shoes, and want a lightweight and strong setup. The best part is, since they are from Crank Brothers they will probably outlast most of your body parts.
2008 Crank Brothers Mallet 1 Pedals
The 2008 Crank Brothers Mallet 1 Pedals are constructed of carbon steel wings, chromoly spindle, aluminum platform body, stainless steel traction plates, formed s45c carbon steel wings, with some 300 series stainless steel springs to hold you in. The Mallet 1’s feature a 15 or 20 degree release angle and include the cleats and shims to get you setup.
If you’re looking to purchase the 2008 Crank Brothers Mallet 1 Pedals checkout our ecommerce store!
So you’re looking to hit some jumps, maybe do a little downhill, and still be able to pedal around on the flats and you’re not sure which bike to get? It’s simple, just get the Jamis Parker 3. In this review I’ll break the Jamis Parker 3 down and tell you what the whole Parker lineup has, and why this one is the best bang for your buck out of the whole group.
What’s the Jamis Parker Series all about?
The Parker lineup from Jamis has been around for a few years now. It’s true purpose is to be the bike you see riding through trees, down ramps, over jumps, and on flats. That’s right, all of those things in one bike. It’s not perfect at any of them, but it’s pretty damn good at all of them. Think of the Parker Series as Jamis’s midsize sport utility crossover, a full suspension ride that will take you everywhere.
Why the Jamis Parker 3?
When most people look at model ranges the car industry immediately comes to mind- where any add ons from the factory are absurdly expensive and it’s cheaper to just buy the base model and upgrade from there. Fortunately it doesn’t work that way with bikes. The Jamis Parker 3 comes with tons of add ons that if you were to put on the Parker 1 or 2 would bring the price way over the modest $2325 MSRP of the Parker 3.
Here’s a list of a few of the add ons to the 2008 Jamis Parker 3
$920 Lyrik Fork from Rock Shox
$180 Trail Hydrailic Disk Brakes from Hayes
$120 WTB Front Hubset
$100 WTB Saddle
$120 2.3″ Prowler Tires by WTB
That’s right, the Jamis Parker 3 has well over $1200 of add ons from the Parker 1- yet there is less than a $1000 price difference. The choice is easy, the Parker 3 is the bike to buy from Jamis this year.
The Saris Bones 3-bike trunk rack holds up to 3 bikes with strong, injection-molded arms and legs and ratcheting anti-sway straps to secure and stabilize the bikes. That’s a little different from the low quality rubber bands that hold the bikes The arc-based design of the Saris Bones 3 Bike Trunk Rack fits over most spoilers and separates bikes on different levels. Also the saris rack is constructed with 100% recyclable, non-rusting materials- that means it’s good to go whenever you are.
Video Review
Looking to purchase the Saris Bones 3 Bike Trunk Rack? Check out our eCommerce store.
The Shimano 105 Cassette is a lightweight and efficient package which makes “pro-level” technology more accessible to part time racers and fitness enthusiasts. Shimano 105 Cassette’s are a by-product of Shimano’s premier engineering range, which means you get most of the performance for a small fraction of the money.
Available in a Nickel plated finish the 10 Speed Shimano 105 Cassette is one of the best bang for your buck items you can put on a bike. Check out our eCommerce store to pick one up!
The Jamis Coda Elite is the best flat bar road bike Jamis currently offers, and as the successor to the Coda Supreme it has a lot of expectations to live up to. With upgrades to its’ brakes, wheelset, pedals, and shifters- Does it live up to the task? Of Course.
Whats makes the Jamis Coda Elite so good?
I look at the Coda Elite as the bike for a parent that rides with the kids, but likes to go out for a ride with some competitive friends on the weekends. Since the Coda has steel tubing and a flat style handlebar, you can actually stand to ride around town. And when you lean into a corner, the Jamis Coda Elite’s has the aggressive response you’d expect from a high end racer. It’s really a great balance of form and function, and is a great decision for a person that is looking for a town bike that can do it all.
The Selle Italia Storika saddle is one of the most recognizable saddles on the market today. Known for its skeleteon frame with leather pads either stitched or rivited onto the body, the Storika is one badass looking seat. Most people that have ridden this saddle describe it as one of the stiffest saddles out there, with little to no variation in saddle height. The only weakness I can find in this saddle is that the copper plating on the rails is known to flake off, which really isn’t much of a weakness at all because it just adds to the rugged look the design of the Selle Italia Storika is meant to embody.
Looking to purchase the Selle Italia Storika? Check out our e-commerce store!
The DT Swiss Aerolite Spoke Holder is is used when you’re building up a wheel to help install the Aerolite spokes. It’s essentially a regular spoke wrench with a longer contact area, which is essential with some of the the thinner aerolite spokes that can be quite susceptible to twisting.
While we don’t carry the DT Swiss Aerolite Spoke Holder on our ecommerce site, feel free to call our shop up and order one right away. It’s worth the added security knowing that your spokes will be in tip top shape to match your new wheelset.
