
Description:
Rants and raves about board games, cards, randomness, and stuff
Contents:
San Juan strategies
I really just need to update this more often, so here's something.
We picked up San Juan, the card game version of Puerto Rico, a few weeks ago. We've been playing a lot two-player games, and a few four-player games of it.
There are two primary differences between it and Puerto Rico: San Juan takes much less time to set up, and it uses the same cards to indicate buildings, resources, and money. Due to this, there is no Captain phase, and hence no shipping: the only way to get victory points is through cards.
The game has slightly less strategy as a result, but it definitely still has at least two or three different ways to rack up victory points. There are buildings that, for example, make production buildings much cheaper to build, and another building that makes them worth additional victory points. Combined with the fact that you can build many of the same kinds of cheap production buildings, you can easily get 3 or 4 victory points for free (or maybe for the price of one card) every time the builder is called. This also works for the purple (special) buildings, but a little less so, since there aren't as many really cheap buildings, and you can't play the same one twice.
Monuments seem worthless at first, since they just give you a 1-for-1 trade on cards for victory points. However, one of the purple buildings gives you an incredible amount of victory points for building multiple monuments. This makes them a highly lucrative strategy if these cards fall your way.
Another tool for your San Juan toolbox works well with three or more players: many of the really good purple buildings that multiply your victory points are also fairly rare: there are usually three of them in the deck. If you already have one in your hand (or have built one), and have a Chapel card, you can "bury" the valuable building underneath your Chapel, earning you a victory point and preventing the card from reentering the game. This doesn't work quite as well in two-player games, because the other person is more likely to get another one anyways.
We're still playing this game regularly (it's a lot of fun!), and we'll keep you posted.
War on Terror: Review
I finally got a copy of War on Terror. It was definitely fun, though a tad long for what you get out of it. We never got an evil player, though half of the players did become terrorists.
Overall, the game felt a bit unpolished: there were definitely some balance issues (surplus of money, lack of money). I think it could do with a nice set of house rules. I might run some simulations to determine some better alternatives in the future.
Power Grid: starting points and costs

Power Grid is one of my favorite games: the point is to build your power plants in cities and power them, while minimizing connecting costs, prices of new power plants, cost of resources, etc. It has an evil handicapping system, where the person in first is given fairly stiff penalties.
During the initial part of the game, players must select which city they wish to start building in. This can be a critical choice, but it is difficult to see how some regions are truly better than others. To answer this question, I turned to Ruby.
To win the game, the player needs to build in 17 cities (or 15, or less, depending on the number of players and the board). So, which city can get to 17 cities the cheapest? The following table lists all of the costs to build 17 cities for the US Map (only connecting costs, not the actual city costs, which are a minimum of 170):
| Cost |
City |
| 149 |
Raleigh |
| 155 |
Atlanta |
| 158 |
Pittsburgh |
| 166 |
Norfolk |
| 168 |
Washington |
| 171 |
Jacksonville |
| 171 |
Savannah |
| 178 |
Cincinnati |
| 179 |
Birmingham |
| 181 |
Detroit |
| 189 |
Chicago |
| 189 |
Knoxville |
| 192 |
New York |
| 192 |
Philadelphia |
| 195 |
Memphis |
| 196 |
Kansas City |
| 205 |
St. Louis |
| 209 |
Buffalo |
| 219 |
Tampa |
| 234 |
Boston |
| 240 |
New Orleans |
| 243 |
Oklahoma City |
| 246 |
Minneapolis |
| 252 |
Omaha |
| 255 |
Dallas |
| 268 |
Cheyenne |
| 268 |
Denver |
| 275 |
Miami |
| 284 |
Houston |
| 288 |
Duluth |
| 289 |
Billings |
| 312 |
Santa Fe |
| 314 |
Fargo |
| 360 |
Seattle |
| 366 |
Boise |
| 380 |
Salt Lake City |
| 384 |
Portland |
| 438 |
Las Vegas |
| 444 |
Phoenix |
| 487 |
San Diego |
| 487 |
San Francisco |
| 493 |
Los Angeles |
This confirms the obvious: the east coast is cheaper, by half as much as most of the west coast cities. Of course, having competition in an area will drive up prices (at the very least by driving up the 170 fixed cost of building all of the cities).
This also tells us that it takes a minimum of 170 + 149 = 319 elektro (money) to end the game, although much more to actually win (including powering them all), since the person who then ended the game would lose to anyone who still had elektro left, or anyone who could power even a single city. The cheapest set of power plants that will power 17 cities costs 81 elektro (for example, the 20, 30, and 31 power plants can supply enough power), so we are up to 400 elektro.
From there, we start getting into a lot of variables. I'm still working on tweaking my Ruby code to come up with some interesting numbers, so stay tuned.
Simple Gin/Rummy Strategies
I have not been playing many games lately, unfortunately. Thursday sometimes wrangles me into a few hands of Gin/Rummy occasionally, though. At first I wrote the game off as silly and totally random, but as I have been playing it more, I have noticed some more subtle strategies in it.
For example, one intuition I initially had was to throw away worthless cards from my hand. This isn't always a good idea: the cards may be worthless to you because another player has the rest of that set. However, if you throw away, say, half of your pair, then it is significantly less likely that your opponent has the other pair needed to make that a threesome (careful that your opponent doesn't have a small straight to stick that on, though).
Another tidbit: if it is still early in the game, and your opponent just lays down (in a straight) a card you need to complete your three-of-a-kind, then you might as well start throwing those two cards away: there's only one card in the entire deck left that can complete your hand, and you may not ever even get to it (this will change depending on how many cards are left, and maybe knowledge of how long the "average" game takes).
I am very tempted to start up a simulation of Gin/Rummy with some simple strategies just to determine things, like, what is the average length of a game. Also, maybe to determine some real-world confirmations of the above strategies. Maybe if I get bored.
Don't get me wrong: I still think the game is extremely random, but I can still enjoy it.
Tower Defense
The first mention I can recall of Tower Defense games is from a set of custom maps for Warcraft III: Reign of Chaos, back in the day (2002ish). For those of you unfamiliar, the basic premise is, instead of going on missions or killing your fellow players, the goal is to guard your base from rushes of "creeps" (bad guys). Wave after wave will crash into your defenses, and they have to hold. You get money for each one killed, and if some number get through to your base (usually 15 or so), you lose. Your only method of protecting yourself is building towers, which have different powers and costs.
Most of the earlier Tower Defense games were very much team-based: you had to find a total of 4, 6, or 8 players who all wanted to play the same variant. Eventually, variable number of player maps were available (I created one myself, based on the Crossfire map), and some solo ones. By far, my favorite such map was Gem Tower Defense (also available as a cheesy flash game).
Anyways, I don't always have the hours to burn on playing a long game of Gem TD, so a popular and lighter flash tower defense game comes to the rescue, especially during downtime at conferences: Desktop Tower Defense.

The game is deceptively easy, especially in easy mode. However, to do well in Normal mode and to even stand a chance in Hard mode, it helps to think about strategy a bit. The above screenshot shows some of the strategy I and others tend to use:
- Build a maze. Naturally, this is a maze building game. It is nearly impossible to win without having the enemies wind around in some death trap. For the most part, it should be constructed of the cheapest possible towers. These are pellet towers, which cost 5. They can be sold for 3 so you can put in a real tower if necessary later. You have to build a maze as well because of the "spawn" enemies: these multiply like crazy, and will easily creep through cracks in your maze, so there has to be a lot of it to catch them and kill them.
- Look at strength per dollar. One of the key points of strategy is to not build a lot of mediocre towers: you should have a lot of cheap towers, and a few very powerful towers. It's just a matter of power per dollar. For example, a bash tower costs the most, but it puts out significant damage. While pellet towers cost 5 gold, they only attack with 5 power, and they are slow. However, they are extremely powerful (and still slow) when they get their final upgrade (for a total cost of 200), where they have an attack power of 400, and the longest range of any tower (180).
- Slow tower + bash tower = obliteration of ground creeps. The bash tower has extremely high power and it can hit every single creep several times if placed optimally. Putting a slow tower near it amplifies its power significantly. Throwing an ink tower near it can also help (but be careful the ink's min and max ranges).
The site itself recommends squirt guns, but I disagree that they "upgrade well". They are useful in the early stages of the game in their weak forms, but they don't do well against dark creeps, since these are immune to weak attacks, and the squirt gun is the weakest. However, their final two upgrades significantly improve them, and make them formidable.
Anti-air are also important, since air creeps ignore your tower and just fly through, and the anti-air towers hit four at once. Their last upgrade is very expensive (over 300 gold), so I usually think it is better to have multiple less than fully upgraded anti-air towers than one fully upgraded one.
Finally, you can find inspiration from YouTube videos (just search for "desktop tower defense"), and having a look at other player's maps.
Chat Noir Solveable!
After days of brute forcing (I used one of the slow computers), I found that the 11x11 version of the Cat Noir game is doable if no squares are marked at the beginning.
Since I don't have the source code that the actual Chat Noir game uses, I had to guess. However, the solution should be equivalent to some strategy in the actual game. (For instance, my cat will always move to the upper-left, then upper-right, etc., if given a choice.)
Edited with fancy JavaScript. Here is what goes on. Click on the display to iterate through.
Basically, it involves cutting off the cat at just the right times, and buying extra time.
I am still pretty sure that the board with one or more blocks already marked may not be winnable. For example, consider:
X . . . . . . . . . .
X . . . . . . . . . .
X . . . . . . . . . .
X . . . . . . . . . .
X . . . . . . . . . .
X . . . . C . . . . .
X X X X X X X X X . .
X X X X X X X X X . .
X X X X X X X X X . .
X X X X X X X X . . .
X X X X X X X X . . .
This one is still solvable, I believe, but this just goes to show that the blocks being there can work against you just as well as for you.
Shuffling Algorithms
There has been a lot of hubbub about shuffling algorithms the past few weeks. This post on Coding Horror is one of my favorites. He does not list my own naïve sorting mechanism, which does not use any swapping (written in Ruby):
src = [1,2,3,4,5]
dest = []
while src.length > 0 do
dest += [src.delete_at(rand(src.length))]
end
Swapping just irritates me. Regardless, this seems to have nearly identical randomness as the Knuth/Fisher-Yates, Shuffle (in that it generates exactly as many permutations as there can be), shown here:
src = [1,2,3,4,5]
(src.length-1).downto(0) { |i|
n = rand(i+1)
src[i],src[n] = src[n],src[i]
}
Some quick test runs have verified to my liking that both my algorithm and KFY produce about the same levels of randomness of shuffles. KFY just modifies the array in place, while mine does so in a copy. I don't immediately see that KFY works (though it does), while my algorithm makes a little more intuitive sense to me.
In general, computer shuffles are notoriously difficult to get correct. One major problem stems from the fact that, for a deck of 52 cards, you have 52! = 80,658,175,170,943,878,571,660,636,856,403,766,975,289,505,440,883,277,824,000,000,000,000 different ways of arranging the cards. That's a big number. A standard random number generator has only about 32-bits of precision, for a maximum of 4,294,967,296 different shuffles it can produce.
There's a huge difference in those two numbers. According to my back-of-the-envelope calculations, you need at least a 226-bit random number generator to hit all of the 52! permutations of a deck. But then you run into a problem, as illustrated in the article cited above: unless you hit is *just* right, you may be favoritizing some shuffles more than others.
It's also really hard to notice that you are doing it, too. Once you have a deck of 13 cards, the number of permutations exceeds 6 billion, meaning merely storing counts becomes nearly impossible, let alone the computation time to generate these counts to a statistically meaningful amount.
The best thing you can do is to use a very large, very good random number generator, preferably with real random numbers. Barring that, follow guidance set for by Knuth (and other brilliant folks, too) when designing your hardcore shuffling algorithms.
Chat Noir – Solveable?
Thanks to my friend Marissa, I have been mucking around with a game called Chat Noir for the past few days.
A quick run-down. We have an 11x11 grid, and the cat starts in the middle. You move first by blacking out one of the hexes, and the cat goes second (and so on). The cat cannot move onto black squares. Some squares start as black already. The goal is to prevent the cat from "escaping" the grid or, equivalently, getting to an edge hex. The cat always moves towards the closest piece of edge.
Is it always possible to capture the cat? My initial guess was "no", and then it turned into a "maybe". I am still not 100% sure.
I have two methods I am going to try now: I am going to try to solve the empty case (with no black squares at the beginning) and try to capture the cat. Either by finding the optimal strategy, or by having a computer prove it is possible. The beauty of this is that the cat's strategy is always known, so it makes the problem simpler.
However, in the general case, it is not necessarily true that a solution in the empty case will extend to the general case.
I am in the middle of coding up some simple strategies and enumerations of the game, and will report on my results in a few days. In that, it may take several days for some of them to run.
TI3: “War Sun” Trench Runs
There is an option in Twilight Imperium 3rd Edition: you can take fighters, which are throwaway units, and have them do a "trench run" on a "war sun" (à la Star Wars). At first glance, this might be a good idea, as fighters are dirt cheap and not very powerful, while war suns are the most expensive and destructive ships. So, how good or bad of an idea is it really?
The rules state that you roll a 10-sided die for each of the fighters making the run: on a 9 or 10, they live through the first barrage. The fighters that live must then roll the die again, getting a perfect 10. This math is easy to do: you have a 2%, or 1/50, chance of killing it. Therefore you must have 50 fighters to get guaranteed destruction, right?
Nope. And with dice, there's no such thing as "guaranteed" anything. The best we can hope for is to be more than likely able to defeat that War Sun.
To start this calculation, we think about how likely it is that the war sun survives a single attack? We know from above that this is 49/50, or 0.98. Well, how likely is it to survive after two attacks? Take 0.98 × 0.98 = 0.9604. After three attacks? 0.983 = 0.941192.
We want to know when we will have a better than half chance, i.e., 0.50. So we solve the following equation:
0.98x = 0.50
Using some elementary algebra and logarithms, the answer will be log(0.50) / log(0.98) = 34.309, or about 35 fighters.
While 35 is better than 50, that's still an awful lot of fighters. Fighters, by default, hit on 9's and 10's, so a fleet of 35 of them would do about 7 damage, which is no number to sneeze at: it would take down many moderate sized enemy fleets on the first barrage, and it would be unlikely that the enemy could do 35 damage every turn, so the fighters would just keep nailing the other player.
Unless you have just a handful of fighters and not a lot else anywhere, a trench run ain't such a good idea. And if someone wants to attack your War Sun with less than 35 fighters, let them. Even with a more normal and strong-sized fleet of 10 fighters, a War Sun has an 81.7% chance of survival, and will be guaranteed to kill 80% of the attacking fighters.
Best Words in Scrabble
Scrabble is a simple, popular game of word construction, played on a 15x15 board. A question I have always had is, what is the best word that can be played?
According to my dictionary, "objectivization" is the most valuable word, for 38 points (all 15 letters across or down). It is only playable in no less than three turns: "ion", "object", and then "ivizat". Or if several of the letters are already set up, and someone plays across them.
If we limit this to eight-letter words (which are the kind found in the The Official Scrabble Players Dictionary ), then we have "highjack" for 28 points, beating the famous "quixotic", which has a raw score of only 26. However, "quixotic" has several very high-point letters, which might be used on various doubling and tripling squares. If we take these squares into account, what do we get?
The most valuable squares are, of course, playing along the sides of the board, with triple word and double letter scores. If we optimize the placement of the letters, we can get the following scores for up to fifteen-letter words:
| Score |
Word |
| 1242 |
netzahualcoyotl |
| 1242 |
czechoslovakian |
| 1107 |
piezoelectrical |
| 1107 |
buckinghamshire |
| 1080 |
unexceptionably |
| 1080 |
unequivocalness |
| 1080 |
objectivization |
| 1080 |
nonspecializing |
| 1080 |
inexplicability |
| 1053 |
ubiquitarianism |
| 1026 |
unexceptionally |
| 1026 |
psychopathology |
| 1026 |
lymphadenopathy |
| 1026 |
inextricability |
| 1026 |
conjunctionally |
Well, the first couple of words are probably not playable (since they might be proper nouns). But there are definitely some 1000-point words. And all of them are theoretically playable for that score, assuming that the row or column has a lot of the letters filled in, and someone plays across them.
If we limit this to words that eight letters long, we get the following:
| Score |
Word |
| 333 |
jacquard |
| 333 |
chutzpah |
| 324 |
wheezily |
| 324 |
highjack |
| 324 |
frowzily |
| 315 |
quixotry |
| 315 |
mitzvoth |
| 315 |
brezhnev |
| 306 |
quixotic |
| 306 |
hangzhou |
| 306 |
flapjack |
The top two are, in fact, in the Scrabble Player's dictionary. The long-standing favorite, "quixotic", is sadly several entries down.
Stay tuned for more on Scrabble.
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