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Released:  2/26/2008 5:03:40 AM
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Cayos Cochinos.. Sailing to Cayos Cochinos.. Diamond Cay.. Last boat dives in Utila..


Contents:

Cayos Cochinos
The best way to wake up in the morning is with a snorkel first thing; we jumped in the water, with our mission to look for an octopus, which Rusty told us we could easily identify by looking for a ring of sea shells, since they like to eat them first and then decorate the entrance to their homes with them. We tried to look for them but we were not successful, though we did work out quite an appetite by the time we got back onto the boat. Helen prepared for us huge banana pancakes with lots of bacon on the side, and along with some really good coffee, it did the trick for the morning. As soon as we finished eating, the park rangers showed up on their boat, the Tiburon, to collect the $10 park entrance fee from each of us. While they were there, we were talking about taking a hike up to the lighthouse overlooking the islands, and they mentioned that it was closed and locked up, since someone decided to steal the bulb and the solar powered station attached to it. We didn´t really realize what that meant, so we still stuck with our plan to hike in the jungle. We also wanted to see the world famous pink boa constrictor, but Rusty told us that they only turn pink during their mating season, which was not this time of the year.

We followed the map Rusty drew for us, passed through the Plantation Beach resort, then higher up towards the top of the island. We took a break at a mirador, where we could see all the way down the other side of the island, all the way to a Garifuna village which we would later visit.
After a bit more hiking we reached the lighthouse, only to then understand that the view of the entire island would only be possible from its top, which was obviously out of limits since the tower was locked. A bit dissapointed, we started walking down towards the village, where we stopped to have a cold drink (my coke was frozen solid, I had to wait for it to partially melt before I could drink it). The village was very small, maybe about 10 houses, but the people very friendly and outgoing - a few even offered to give us a small tour and talked to us as we walked along, though sometimes they were difficult to understand, since the Garifuna language, though technically English, has a very peculiar accent that makes it sound completely foreign. We met up with Rusty in the village, and he gave us a ride back to the Brazen in the dinghy.

Back on the boat, we enjoyed a really good and really huge lunch of potato salad, pork chops and fresh salad, and for the afternoon, Rusty took us, again in the dinghy, to the other side of the bay for an extended snorkel around the reefs and some of the dive sites. We saw the remains of a boat that smashed against the reef on a stormy night, and for a while we followed some divers who were below us, waving at them from the surface of the water. We saw lots of Caribbean Reef Squid, trunk fish, stoplight parrot fish, and the biggest barracuda we had ever seen (it´s not a fishing story, but this one was almost as big as us!) . Towards the end, we started to get a little bit cold, so we made our way back to the dinghy, asking Rusty to take us back to the Brazen. From there we returned to the Plantation Beach resort to shower, change, and settle our bill; Rusty also wanted to point our the sleeping giant, as from a certain angle the island across from us looked like a huge dinosaur sleeping in the water. After the sunset, we walked back on the path towards the boat, and Josh had a bit of a showdown with a dog that seemed to have taken over the dock; we were all pushing Josh ahead of us since he at least got rabies shots before traveling.

In the evening we had Rusty´s own soup of leftovers, which turned out to be pretty good, and he told us story after story, one more outrageous than the next. We knew that we shouldn´t believe half the stuff he was telling us, but I have to admit the stories were very entertaining. One was about how he and his crew actually discovered a treasure, and divided up the proceeds, though most blew through the money drinking, gambling and womanizing, but one was smart enough to invest his share in a hotel, and now has more money than the rest of them put together. Another story was from his diving days, when he found an octopus, pulled it out of its hole, and it got so freaked out that it attached itself to him, settling on his head; and so the story goes that he sailed back into the harbour in Bahamas with an octopus on his head, before depositing it at the aquarium at the Valentine´s dive shop. Again, a big boulder of salt should be taken with his stories, but they kept us entertained for hours.


Sailing to Cayos Cochinos
Another early morning wake up in order to get ready to leave Utila and head south towards Cayos Cochinos; we had to meet Captain Rusty and his boat at the fuel dock, and since we were unsure where it was we had to ask around for directions. Once we found it, however, we realised it would be pretty easy to get there, since the giant tanks and fuel pumps were a dead giveaway. Captain Rusty´s boat, the Brazen is a 40 ft motor sailor, meaning that it has both an engine and sails, thus ready to go in any type of weather conditions. We hopped on board where met Rusty himself, as well as Helen (his assistant, cook and sometimes girlfriend - we had a tough time actually determining the status of their relationship) and two other guys who we were dropping off at a research station on one of the islands. As we got out of the harbour, after filling up, we already started to deal with the strong winds; normally they don´t pick up until later in the afternoon, but this morning was different. Though I tried to be brave and pretend I didn´t need anything, once we were in open water, I had to reach for my supply of gravol as we were really bouncing up and down the waves. Marisa was having an even tougher time than me, so I guess I shouldn´t be complaining; I spent most of the 4 hour trip sleeping, due to the effects of gravol, waking up only every now and again, once as Rusty whistled to get our attention towards a group of dolphins who were following the boat. As Cayos Cochinos came into our view, the wind intensified even more, as some waves were even going above the boat, and right before the end of the trip, the main sail ripped into so many pieces that it couldn´t even had been possible to repair it.

So, with the ego bruised but the boat intact we entered the harbour of one of the two main islands, found a sheltered place to anchor in a bay with just a handful of houses and no other boats around. We got snorkel gear and jumped off the boat, as Rusty took the other two guys in the dinghy to their research station. The water here was really clear, and we discovered some of the best snorkeling we have ever done; there were really nice corals, we saw a yellow stingray (much smaller than the southern ones), as well as barracuda and cow fish. By the time we got back to the boat Helen had prepared lunch for us, really good spaghetti with pineapple and chicken in coconut sauce. Later in the afternoon, we left the boat, got in the dinghy to get to the island, and followed a path through the forest, next to some huge quarts rocks, towards the Plantation Beach Resort. This was the only resort on the island, almost exclusive to divers, and since Rusty knew all the owners, they allowed him to bring in his guests from the sailboat to use the facilities, shower, change and enjoy a few cold beers.

As we sat in the hammocks watching the sunset, Rusty was talking to us and telling us all kinds of stories about how he grew up in the Bahamas, which is where Marisa also spent her childhood. One story led to another, and they put the two and two together
and realised that Rusty was the instructor who taught Marisa´s mom to scuba dive - talk about a small world! After the sunset and the obligatory pictures, we started back on the path, to return to the boat before it got completely dark. For dinner, Rusty made a really good soup, and also gave us a very spicy sauce, his very own creation; the sauce was spicy in itself, but the little red peppers inside were the real killers. Josh didn´t notice a few of them fall into his soup as he was adding the sauce, and soon after he got to pay the price. All of a sudden he took a deep breath, started turning red, and couldn´t breathe or talk; he started coughing, and in between managed to say ¨This chilly is making me dizzy¨. Marisa and I were rolling on the floor laughing so hard we had tears in our eyes and couldn´t talk either, then Rusty and Helen joined in as well, and we all had a blast up until Josh started getting the first signs of a migrane, then the fun was over. We did whatever we could to make him feel better, but esentially nothing really helps except for reducing noise and light pollution, and letting him lie down and relax. He went to sleep soon after, and I spent the rest of the evening listening to music and reading before going to sleep myself.


Diamond Cay
We were leaving in the afternoon, once the dive boat returned to Hotel Kayla, so we had to check out by 8am to have the rooms cleaned, but we still did not have enough diving yet. At the last minute, we decided to do another self-guided dive, this time around Diamond Cay, the island right across from the Jewel Cay. We divided the responsibilities around the same as last time, and we jumped in the water; we saw more sea pearls as well as the resident porcupine fish, who swam along with us for a while. What we didn´t realise from above water is that while Diamond Cay is a round island, the reason for its name is the shape of the coral that surrounds it, which threw me for a loop when we kept on diving in one direction along the wall without turning. We did make it safely back after about an hour, but not before a few tense moments when I was considering the long surface swim back if we came up at the wrong place. The important accomplishment is that we completed our second self-guided dive, and we were really proud of that. By the time we put our equipment away we saw Miss Kary return, went to grab our bags and say our goodbyes to everyone from Captain Morgan´s.

We got a ride back to East Harbour, went inside the dive shop to settle our bill, while at the same time calling around to find a room for the night. We finally found a 3 person room at Hotel Bavaria, and went there to drop off our bags; this had to be one of the smallest rooms I have ever seen. From the door you would step right into the bed, from which you could roll over and end up in the bathroom, which we were convinced used to be a closet before it was converted. Either way, it was simply a place to sleep for the night, so we didn´t say much about it since we wouldn´t be spending too much time there. We went back into town to use the internet (there was no access on the Cays) and then did some shopping for our sailing trip. While we were using the internet, we did some research about Roatan, our next destination after Cayos Cochinos, and we were more than a little dissapointed. Everything was either fully booked or so out of our budget that after a quick conference we all decided that we wanted to spend our last few days together in a place that was affordable and we felt comfortable in, so we returned to Captain Morgan´s to tell them we were be back on the cays in a few days, after the sailing trip. We met up with everyone at the dive shop, after the arrival of the afternoon ferry, and once they closed down we all headed out for dinner at Dave´s, where coincidentally Dave the DMT happened to work. After dinner we said goodvye to Sam, Steve, Anouk, Ian and Koki and went back to the hotel since we had an early morning start to meet Captain Rusty.



Last boat dives in Utila
Since we were leaving for our sailing trip to Cayos Cochinos these were to be our last boat dives from Miss Kary with Captain Morgan's. We were very excited as the decision was made to head to the south side of Utila, specifically to do a wreck dive, right in Utila harbour. The ship is called The Halliburton, sunk specifically for diving reasons 30 m below the sea level. Because this was a deep dive, we knew that it would last less than the others, since air consumption is increased the deeper we dove. We first dropped off the open water students at a shallower site close by, then our turn came - we descended straight down to the bottom, slowly to give us a chance to equalize properly, and we found ourselves looking up at a huge ship. We first circled it at the bottom, then rose a few meters and went over, and then right into the cargo hull. There were even pockets of air from all the other divers who have passed through, and we heard stories of people taking out their regulators to breath normally at 30 m depth, something we did not dare try due to nitrogen narcosis (the hallucinogenic effect of diving in deep water).

We then continued to rise a few more meters, went around the cabin, and then right through it - it is a bit of a rite of passage when exploring the Halliburton to be inside of the cabin, at the helm of the ship, pretending to be the underwater captain. There is even a poster above the helm that claims "Jesus was a Pirate!", so everytime we heard that expression after our dive we knew it was coming from someone who had explored the wreck. Unfortunately our experience at the Halliburton did not last that long, and about half an hour later, after a 5 minute mandatory safety stop we got back on the boat to go retrieve the others from the nearby site. Our surface time was spent traveling to our second location, named Little Bight. This site was well known for its seahorses, and we were also looking forward to it since we had never seen them before (outside of an aquarium anyway). Our two Aussie friends, Ian and Koki, had taken out the camera that day, and they promised to share them with us. We saw at least 5 different sea horses, though not quite what you would expect after watching "The Little Mermaid" as they were mostly green like seaweeds, and again, there was no singing, dancing or crab with a Jamaican accent playing steeldrums. We also saw many brown garden eels, which looked like sea grass until we approached them and they retreated in the sand. After the dives, our regular schedule continued, we had lunch at Fishburgers, and then a quick snorkel in the afternoon, followed by sunset and dinner with Koki and Ian at Cayview Restaurant. The evening was topped off by watching shooting stars above us and lightning in the distance, feeling a bit sad that we were leaving the following day.



Self-guided dive at Jewel Cay

For a while we debated with the notion of just renting equipment and going on a dive without a divemaster, and we finally decided today would be that day. We had already surveyed the site by snorkeling a few times over it, picking out reference points to help us with the navigation. We waited for the dive boat to leave, so that we could have the deck all to ourselves to get geared up. We divided up the responsibilities, Josh being in charge of time, Marisa monitoring the air, and I was looking after the navigation (since I have a pretty good sense of direction). We felt really comfortable being by ourselves, and it didn't take us long to see a southern stingray, and we got pretty close to it, watching it swim along the bottom. Because our dive was pretty shallow and we were very relaxed, we managed to stretch it to just about an hour, having time to explore both sides of the coral reef before returning to the deck. Upon finishing and exiting the water, we felt a great sense of satisfaction as everything went really smoothly. We wrote our own dive profile and fish identifier, and after putting our equipment away we headed into the village to grab some lunch.

In the afternoon, we convinced Brian to join us for a snorkel trip off the deck, and within minutes of being in the water we first saw two, then an entire school of Caribbean Reef Squid, hovering


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